Features...
10 Top Kayaking Spots
 KERRY
HOWE, author of the sea kayak touring manual, Coastal Sea
Kayaking in New Zealand, gives his pick of 10 top places to
paddle this summer
Just list 10 top sea kayak
destinations said the editor in a casual email. Wow! That's
some challenge given the infinite glories of New Zealand's
coastline. So here's my highly subjective choice, organised
more by level of difficulty and access rather than relative
magnificence, and there's a mix of day and multi-day trips.
For the
competent beginner:
1. Okura Estuary
It's just 3km
around the corner from Auckland's Long Bay on the North
Shore. So close to the city, yet an isolated oasis. It is
fringed by a mix of open farmland and native bush down to
the water's edge. But with projected suburban housing
developments it won't stay that way for much longer! It is
very tidal so it is preferable to arrive on the flood tide
and leave on the ebb, but going at low tide has its special
charms too, especially the extensive sand and shell flats
with myriad wading birds. Go early in the morning, or
evening, and there will be no one there. Leave from the
northern end of Long Bay, past the pohutukawa-lined Grannies
Bay and Pohutukawa (nuddy) Bay, then around Point Piripiri,
across the reef, and into the estuary. There's a lovely
beach by historic Dacre Cottage, plus a shimmering sandspit
where there is good picnicking and swimming on the high
tide. I've almost always seen stingrays cruising in the
clear waters of the shallow sand banks. If you have plenty
of energy you can also paddle up the Wade River (as far as
Silverdale) which branches off the north-western end of the
Okura estuary.
2.
Motuihe Island
Every Auckland
sea kayaker regularly crosses to Rangitoto. The view from
the summit is stunning and it's a great place to go in the
evening and watch the sun set. But there's another nearby
destination that is often overlooked - Motuihe Island. It is
only is 8km from St Heliers, and 6.5km from Eastern Beach.
Motuihe is by far the prettiest of the inner Gulf islands
with superb beaches. The best beach is north-eastern-facing
Ocean Beach, just a few metres across a narrow isthmus from
a shallower, city-facing bay. Whichever way the wind blows,
you have sheltered beach living. Long ago Motuihe was one of
Auckland's major picnic destinations but now without a ferry
service, only boaties go there - and they tend to lie about
on their expensive boats all day so you've got the island
pretty much to yourself. It's a marvellous place for a day
trip, or, better still, for a longer stay at the expansive
and basic campground, delightfully shaded by the island's
characteristic Norfolk pines and marvellous giant fig trees.
Wander about the island, making sure you visit the cliff top
lookout at the northern tip. Paddle around Motuihe sampling
its numerous beaches, especially those along its southern
shore, which never seem to have anyone on them. They have
fringing offshore reefs which keep boaties away. Motuihe is
also a great base for short trips across to Motutapu Island
(and beyond to Rakino Island and the Noises) and to Waiheke
Island for wine and lattes. From Motuihe at night watch the
moon rise over Waiheke, or, looking the other way, the
glowing lights of Auckland city - so near, so far. Motuihe
is administered by the Department of Conservation. It is now
pest free and native tree planting is underway.
3.
Mahurangi
The Mahurangi
region, just 45-minutes north of Auckland, is a sea
kayakers' paradise. Personally, I think its many beaches and
islands are far more beautiful than those of the Bay of
Islands, and less populated. Auckland Regional Council
campsites abound near the entrance to the Mahurangi River -
Sullivans Bay, Mita Bay, Lagoon Bay, Te Muri. Whether you go
for a day or a week, the sea kayaking possibilities are
endless. Just 6km offshore lies my favourite island -
Motuora, run by DoC and the Motuora Restoration Society.
Much of the island has been replanted in recent years and
being pest free it is currently used to harden kiwi chicks
before they are released elsewhere. The beachside campground
is simply as good as it gets - you are but metres from high
tide. You may hear penguins at night, and in the day
ubiquitous oyster catchers. The sea is always crystal clear
and kahawai leap in the shallows. There are wonderful island
walking tracks and panoramic views. Still Bay, on the
southern side, is picture perfect. Climb to the top of the
island at night and see virtually every lighthouse in the
Gulf, and the glowing embers of the distant city. Just off
Motuora lie many islands, including Motuketekete, and
Moturekareka where you can paddle around the wreck of the
old sailing vessel Rewa. A bit further off lies Beehive
Island (straight from a story book), and Kawau Island,
complete with Governor George Grey's mansion, shop and pub.
4. Cape
Kidnappers
Cape
Kidnappers is so typically southern east coast North Island.
The rugged hills are windblown and treeless, the cliffs
gaunt and haunting. It's not pretty, but dramatic and
memorable. Head off from Te Awanga or Clifton and glide
along the massive cliff faces. You can pity the poor
wretches, bumping over the rocks on trailers behind
diesel-belching tractors, heading out to the gannet colony.
There is always a low swell since you are in the lee of the
Cape that breaks the full force of southerly seas. The water
in Hawke Bay is always a soft cloudy blue, like a South
Island river and the cliffs are a dazzling white. The Cape
was so-named by Cook because Maori tried to capture some of
his crew. Beyond the Black Rocks reef you catch your first
glimpse of the Cape, which ends in a needle sharp island
that rises vertically from sea level. Sea kayaking is so
often associated with horizontal lines - the horizon itself,
swells, beaches, but here perpendicular lines intrude upon
your brain. Then it's time to go ashore and climb that cliff
face. The track is well made, though steep. Most travellers
are gasping on the way up. Suddenly you are overlooking the
gannet colony and down the long ridge line to the Cape
itself, with South America somewhere over the horizon. It's
an exposed and potentially dangerous coast, so pick settled
weather for your trip. If it is calm you can do a circuit of
the island at the Cape's tip, and look back up the ridge to
the gannets. This is a day trip only - return distance about
15km from Clifton.
For the
more experienced:
5. Queen Charlotte Sound
You can keep
Abel Tasman National Park - it may be scenically stunning,
but it's ruined by the many hundreds of sea kayakers who
flock there. Give me Queen Charlotte Sound every time. There
are dozens of destinations out from Picton with the Sound's
shoreline twists and turns providing innumerable sheltered
inlets. Steep bush hillsides plunge straight down into the
sea, and you can be in extremely deep water just metres from
the shore. Much of the shoreline is covered in mussels while
blue cod leap onto any baited hook lowered overboard.
Throughout the Sounds there are delightful tiny bush
campsites, perfect for sea kayakers. Just watch out for
those Cook Strait ferries in Tory Channel!
I prefer to paddle out beyond Kurakura Point and play around
Blumine, Long, and Motuara Islands in the outer Sound. My
favourite campsite is at Cannibal Cove. It's completely
unchanged from Cook's time and iss enclosed by high bush
clad hills. A strong bubbling stream in the middle of the
stony beach will provide you with water, as it did for Cook.
He called it Cannibal Cove because he came across an
isolated party of Maori carrying a basket of cooked human
flesh. There is always a slight frisson about camping in a
place called Cannibal Cove, especially when morepork call in
the night, and great gusts of wind roar down the valleys and
pound the tent. Cannibal Cove looks like it comes straight
from a Hodges' painting with its ominous, dark bush and
rainy mists sweeping over its peaks. The Sound is steeped in
contact history, for here Cook spent most of his time on his
voyages to New Zealand. It was on this island that Joseph
Banks wrote lyrically about the dawn chorus, especially the
bell birds - "the most melodious wild music I have ever
heard". Even in these species-depleted times, a few Bell
Birds remain. Cook planted a garden on Long Island where
botanists today can find plants either introduced or used by
Cook. Picton to Cannibal Cove is about 30km.
6.
Tutukaka Coast
This is simply
quintessential Northland, heartland summertime New Zealand.
It is a rocky indented coastline with stunning small bays
and coves, crimson pohutukawa, glistening white sandy
beaches, and pristine estuaries. My favourite coastline
stretches over 40km from Ngunguru to Whangaruru and
incorporates magnificent locations that have long offered
holiday pleasures - Tutukaka, Matapouri, Whananaki,
Mimiwhangata, Helena Bay, Oakura. While this stretch of
coast is exposed to north-easterlies, even in a large swell
there are always places for safe, sheltered landings and
departures. And there are some great estuaries to sea kayak
if it is too rough at sea - such as at Ngunguru, Matapouri,
and Whananaki. There are a few commercial campgrounds, plus
the DoC camps at Mimiwhangata and Whangaruru, but you can
usually always find your own private camp spot, providing
you keep away from the main holiday beaches. You can paddle,
go snorkelling, walk bush tracks, go fishing. The snapper
fishing is not what it used to be, but there are plenty of
kahawai to troll for. In settled weather, the best paddling
is usually early in the morning, before summer sea breezes
get up, and they can be quite strong. Spend hot afternoons
slumbering under some flaming pohutukawa, and contemplate
the intriguing Poor Knights Islands floating on the horizon.
7.
Eastern Bay of Plenty/East Cape
The East Cape
region has always had a different atmosphere. It's remote,
has a powerful Maori past and present, and offers an older,
slower, and nicer New Zealand. The massive Raukumara Range
is a living, brooding presence - its bushy foothills tumble
into the sea. The best paddling coast - rocky, indented,
bushy - stretches some 60km from Cape Runaway through almost
to Opotiki. There's ready access most of the way since the
twisting state highway follows the coastline, though you
virtually never see it from the sea. You can do all or any
sections of this route. It is ideally suited for a car
supported expedition, if you have a loyal driver. There are
numerous tiny settlements, often with historic churches, all
along the route. A number of rivers, including the mighty
Motu, disgorge into the sea so it is sometimes cloudy - and
watch for half sunken logs. The shingle beaches are
invariably packed with driftwood. The fishing is legendary.
White Island steams ominously in the distance.
8. End
of Coromandel Peninsula
The Coromandel
Peninsula ends with mighty Moehau mountain (Coromandel
Forest Park) and it is possible to paddle almost right
around it. Common start/stop points are Colville Bay and,
across a narrow isthmus, Waikawau Bay. Paddling from one or
the other, the distance round the peninsula's end is just
under 50km. But you can shorten that distance by rather
difficult road access right round to Fletcher Bay from the
west, or to Port Charles/Stony Bay from the east. The
peninsula's tip is blessed with a string of great DoC
campsites - Fantail Bay, Port Jackson, Fletcher Bay, Stony
Bay, Waikawau Bay. In settled weather, the sea kayaking is
easy enough, but it can be a very windy location since
Moehau significantly amplifies normal wind speeds. Take care
in brisk westerlies as you round the northern tip,
especially near the dramatic Pinnacles and Sugar Loaf Rocks
just to the east of Fletcher Bay. For the energetic there's
an almost 600m hill behind Fletcher Bay, also accessible by
dirt track from Stony Bay. The views over the Gulf,
especially across to Great Barrier are breathtaking.
For the
experienced:
9. Cape Brett
Cape Brett
lies about 10km from Rawhiti. It's an easy paddle in settled
conditions, but you are in very exposed waters and
conditions can more often than not be quite challenging. One
day it might be calm as a mill pond, near gale winds the
next. The goal is of course to go through the hole in Piercy
Island, another 500m beyond the Cape. Make sure that a
tourist fast ferry is not coming through the other way! This
is serious blue water territory, home of deep sea fishing in
New Zealand, and that thought usually has me keeping a
special look out for nasty fins. But all I've ever seen in
the clear seas are vast schools of pink and blue maomao. And
it's one place where, for some reason or other, I'm
conscious of (and slightly uncertain about) being in very
deep water - perhaps it's because of the blue water's
translucence - you can see down forever! Also, as with Cape
Kidnappers, Cape Brett offers you a sense of utter
remoteness, right at the very edge of our world. There's a
feeling of privilege just being there, but also a healthy
realisation of your insignificance, knowing that the weather
gods will let you stay only fleetingly. Deep Water Cove,
about 6km inside the Cape, offers a place for a stretch and
a swim but unfortunately no camping is allowed. Camp sites
are instead at Rawhiti and Urupukapuka Island. Another
option is to travel right around the Cape to the delightful,
almost landlocked Whangamumu Harbour at its southern base,
and visit the remains of the old whaling station. There's no
road access. Rawhiti to Whangamumu return is about 40km.
10.
D'Urville Island
This is
serious sea kayak expedition country. D'Urville Island is
indeed rugged, remote, unique. Sticking right out into Cook
Strait it can be home to some pretty extreme weather and
tidal rips. French Pass where tidal flows can reach more
than eight knots is legendary - but just wait patiently
until you get 20-minutes of slack water when the tide turns!
The island's western shore is most exposed, though there is
shelter in Cherry/Kupe Bays, Greville Harbour and Port
Hardy. If you are lucky you can circumnavigate (but not
land) on Stephens Island off D'Urville's northern tip - and
they don't come any more isolated and rugged than that! The
east coast of D'Urville Island is almost serene by contrast.
The island not only has wild, wild landscape, but a long
history as a Maori argillite tool factory. Unfinished/broken
stone tools are easily found. It is also home to resourceful
farming families, ex-lighthouse keepers, and, until
recently, a real Robinson Crusoe who lived on the Rangitoto
Islands. Circumnavigating D'Urville is a journey round
place, time, and unforgettable characters. The direct
distance around is some 70km. It's a journey that you will
reflect on for the rest of your life - a true wilderness sea
kayak experience.
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